The art of Chuqa embroidery in Iran: a legacy of the Bakhtiari nomads
Chuqa embroidery is one of the valuable and original handicrafts of Iran, which has its roots in the rich culture of the Bakhtiari nomads. Chugha is a long sleeveless dress that Bakhtiari men wear in various ceremonies and occasions. This dress with various and beautiful designs and colors is a symbol of the identity and culture of this people.
History of needlework
Chugha weaving and embroidery have been popular among Bakhtiaris for a long time. Bakhtiari women use sheep’s wool and wooden dars to weave chuqas with different designs and patterns. This art has become one of the most important handicrafts of Iran due to its abundant use in the daily life of nomads as well as its beauty and originality.
Materials and tools used in embroidery
- Wool: The most important raw material in chugha embroidery is wool. Sheep wool is mostly used due to its high quality and warmth.
- Dar: Chuqa weaving dar is usually wooden and is placed horizontally on the ground.
- Maqiz: It is a wooden or metal device that is used to stretch the strings and create tension in them.
- Comb: It is used to compress the wefts and create a uniform surface on the fabric.
- Needle and thread: used to sew decorations and designs on the chugha.
Cross stitch process - Preparation of wool: wool is washed, dried and spun to become yarn.
- Adjusted frame: the strings are stretched on the frame with a certain distance.
- Weaving: by using a loom and a comb, the wefts are woven around the threads and the cloth is formed.
Designing and sewing: Various designs such as rhombuses, squares, triangles, and simple flowers are woven or sewn on the chugha.
The characteristics of Chugha - Geometric designs: simple and repetitive geometric designs are one of the distinctive features of Chugha.
- Natural colors: natural colors such as red, blue, green and yellow are used to dye wool.
- Resistant material: Chuqa is made of wool and is very resistant and warm.
- Many uses: Chuqa is used in weddings, funerals and various celebrations and is a symbol of masculinity and courage.